By Harriette Cole
Mark Ingram has worked in bridal for more than 25 years and is one of the few Black designers on Madison Avenue. In his one-on-one with Black Bride, the designer reflects on his career, the latest trends and bridal’s future.
Black Bride: You started your atelier 25 years ago. What was the inspiration to start it?
Mark Ingram: To be very honest, my job as a buyer and manager of a SoHo-based bridal salon was coming to an end, with a long lead time notice. I saw an opportunity to fill the void of the business that was closing by opening my own store, but with relocation to Midtown Manhattan. It was never my intention to become a bridal business owner, but the opportunity presented itself, the timing was right given where I was in my career, and with the support of my family, employer and mentors, it became a reality in a very short time.
BB: What impact did Amsale have on your career?
MI: Amsale and her husband, Neil Brown, were mentors who offered unequivocal support of my opening a business under my own name. As an employee of Amsale for four years, 1996–2000, and literally sitting beside her every working day, what I learned from her personally about design, production and running a business [was] a master class.
BB: How has the bride of 25 years ago changed over time?
MI: Brides today have more choices of what to wear, where and how to shop. She is more educated about the process than ever before, which puts the onus on designers and retailers to be at the top of their game.
BB: What trends do you find to be the most enduring?
MI: The one trend, the strapless bodice, which incidentally Amsale pioneered in the very early ’90s, endures as a classic and the ultimate glamorous neckline for a bridal gown. Prior to the ’90s, a strapless wedding gown was not particularly the fashion. Long sleeves and high necklines were de rigueur for generations. The strapless wedding gown just felt right and modern in that time period.
BB: When a bride comes to your atelier, how do you help her find the right dress?
MI: Finding the right dress starts with listening. You must hear and see what the bride is telling you, either verbally or with body cues. Respecting a budget as well as wedding venue, theme and time of year is also critical.
BB: What sizes do you offer to brides?
MI: It’s a complicated question because, technically, any size or body type can be accommodated, as we are a “made-to-order” business. But practically, most bridal salons’ sample gowns are limited to sizes 8–12 ready-to-wear sizing for try-ons.
BB: Do you dress the mother of the bride? The bridal party?
MI: We do dress mothers of the bride. In fact, I recently designed a gown for TV personality and friend Deborah Roberts to wear at her daughter’s wedding, as well as for the bride. We are not typically an “off-the-rack” store, so mothers looking for something very particular for custom design, or selecting a gown that is more unusual and can’t be widely found at traditional retail stores, would be our customer[s].
BB: What are some of the classic silhouettes that brides love?
MI: A-line skirts, whether narrow or full, would be the most popular skirt shape for most Mark Ingram brides. We do sell fuller ball gowns as well, but less slim or column shapes. The renewed interest in the Princess A-line silhouette, without waist seaming and long vertical lines, is trending at Mark Ingram currently.
BB: When did you start your eponymous collection?
MI: I [started] designing my first pieces in late 2017 solely for my atelier. I had just been informed that one of my most popular and successful designer brands was moving to a smaller-scale distribution model, and that my account, along with about a dozen other high-end bridal retailers, would be closed. It was devastating! But fortunately I had an amazing production source in my back pocket and a knowledge of dress construction that gave me the courage to test some of my own designs. I had to immediately fill the void of luxury, all-American contemporary classic styling for my atelier. Fortunately, shortly after, other retailers found my designs appealing as well.
BB: What is different about your collection from the others that you carry in your salon?
MI: As an owner of a multi-vendor salon and a designer, I have to be very careful to keep my design vision pure and my own. There must not be a cross-referencing with my other suppliers in any way to keep my integrity intact. That is always my challenge. Luckily, I have a very particular point of view that I believe is my signature, and I am very happy to stay in my design lane.
BB: What are your price ranges for your collection? For the atelier?
MI: My gowns, which are 100% Italian-made and fabric sourced, start at $6,990 retail and top out at about $12,990. The average price point in my atelier is about the same, with the biggest selection within my inventory retailing from $8k–15k. There are some exception brands that carry a higher retail.
BB: It’s not lost on us that you are one of a few Black bridal designers on Madison Avenue. What contributes to your longevity?
MI: My longevity comes from a work ethic instilled in me from my parents and grandparents. I have entrepreneurial roots in my family that go back to just post–Civil War here in the U.S. I guess it’s just something in my DNA that makes me have tremendous pride in ownership and accomplishment. I also adore what I do, working in a world of luxury and making people happy. I will never say that I “am” my customer, but I certainly know how to relate and cater to them.
BB: What do you envision for the next 25 years?
MI: First and foremost, I hope for my continued health and physical abilities and stamina. The retail portion of my business is set up with tremendous leadership in the form of a COO and managers who are uber-capable, and thankfully younger than me. My dream is for my niece, Maia, who grew up in the business, to return to it and take it over. As long as I have my sight and mind, I will design as long as I can!
Feature image courtesy of Mark Ingram
